To compare moving quotes fairly, get at least three written estimates based on the same inventory, make sure each one specifies whether it’s binding or non-binding, and verify the company’s license before you sign anything. The cheapest number is rarely the real number. Scammers win by quoting low to get your deposit, then inflating the price once your stuff is on the truck.
Here’s how to read estimates like someone who’s been burned before, plus the verification steps that filter out the bad actors in a few minutes.
Get apples-to-apples estimates first
You can’t compare quotes if each company is pricing a different move. Before you call anyone, build a rough inventory: room by room, list the big items and roughly how many boxes you’ll have. Note stairs, long carries from the truck to the door, elevator reservations, and whether either location is hard for a large truck to reach.
Give every company the same information. If one quote is hundreds of dollars cheaper, the usual reason isn’t generosity, it’s that they assumed less weight, fewer stairs, or no packing services. Same inputs, comparable outputs. Different inputs, meaningless comparison.
For any move over a few thousand pounds or a long distance, push for an in-home or video survey. A reputable mover wants to see what they’re hauling. A company willing to quote a full-house move sight unseen over the phone is either guessing or planning to revise the price later.
Understand binding vs non-binding estimates
This is the single most useful thing to understand about moving quotes, and most people don’t.
- Non-binding estimate: a good-faith guess. The final cost is based on actual weight, so it can go up or down on moving day. By federal rule for interstate moves, the mover can’t require you to pay more than 110% of a non-binding estimate at delivery (the rest is billed later), but the total can still climb.
- Binding estimate: a fixed price for the services and inventory listed. As long as nothing changes, that’s what you pay.
- Binding not-to-exceed: the best of both. If your shipment weighs less than estimated, you pay less. If it weighs more, you still pay the quoted price. This protects you in both directions.
When you compare quotes, write down which type each one is. A low binding price beats a slightly lower non-binding one, because the non-binding number is the floor, not the ceiling.
Verify the company is actually licensed
For interstate moves, every legitimate mover has a U.S. DOT number and an MC number registered with the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA). This takes minutes to check and weeds out a large share of scams.
- Ask the company for its U.S. DOT number.
- Look it up on the FMCSA’s mover search tool at fmcsa.dot.gov, or through the FMCSA’s Protect Your Move site.
- Confirm the company name matches, the registration is active, and they’re authorized to operate as a household goods carrier.
- Check the complaint history while you’re there.
For local, in-state moves, FMCSA may not apply, but many states have their own licensing for movers (often through a public utilities commission or department of transportation). A quick search for “[your state] moving company license” tells you what to look for.
Red flag: a company that won’t give you a DOT number, or whose number traces to a different business name, sometimes a sign of a mover who’s been shut down and reopened under a new identity.
Read the reviews like a detective
Star ratings are easy to fake. Patterns are harder to fake.
- Look for specifics. Genuine reviews name the crew, describe a specific item, mention the actual date. Vague five-star reviews posted in a cluster on the same week are a warning sign.
- Read the one- and two-star reviews carefully. A few unhappy customers is normal. A repeated story (price doubled on delivery, items held until extra payment, no-show on moving day) is a pattern you should believe.
- Check more than one platform. Google, the Better Business Bureau, and FMCSA complaints together give a fuller picture than any single source.
- See how the company responds. Professional, specific responses to complaints suggest a real operation. Defensive or absent responses suggest otherwise.
Spot the classic moving scams
Most moving fraud follows a handful of scripts. Once you know them, they’re easy to catch.
The lowball-then-inflate
You’re quoted a price that’s noticeably below everyone else. On moving day, suddenly there’s more weight, extra fees, or “unforeseen” charges, and the total balloons. The low quote was bait.
The hostage load
Your belongings are loaded, then the mover demands far more than the estimate before they’ll unload. This is illegal for interstate moves, but recovering your things is a nightmare. The defense is a binding estimate and a licensed carrier.
The large upfront deposit
Reputable movers may take a modest deposit, but anyone demanding a large cash deposit or full payment before the move is a major red flag. Pay with a credit card when you can, so you have recourse if things go sideways.
The blank or unsigned paperwork
Never sign a blank or incomplete document. The estimate, the order for service, and the bill of lading should all be filled in and given to you. No paperwork means no protection.
Compare the full price, not just the headline number
The quoted base rate is only part of the story. When you line up estimates side by side, compare these components for each:
- Base rate: hourly for local, or by weight and distance for long-distance.
- Packing services and materials: included, optional, or extra?
- Stairs, long carry, and elevator fees
- Bulky or specialty item charges: pianos, safes, gun safes, exercise equipment.
- Fuel surcharge and travel time
- Valuation coverage: the basic released-value coverage (often around 60 cents per pound per item) is minimal. Full-value protection costs more but actually replaces or repairs damaged items. Decide which you want and price both.
- Storage, if you’ll need it between move-out and move-in.
A quote that looks cheap because it leaves out packing or stairs isn’t cheap, it’s incomplete. Get every line item in writing.
Trust your gut on communication
Beyond the numbers, pay attention to how a company treats you before you’ve paid a dime. Do they answer the phone with a real company name, or a generic “Movers”? Do they have a physical address you can verify? Do they explain the estimate clearly and answer questions without dodging? The companies that are sloppy or evasive during the sales process tend to be sloppy or evasive on moving day.
When you’re gathering your three estimates, it’s reasonable to include a quote from Moverly in the mix. Request a free quote, line it up against the others on the same inventory, and judge it on the same criteria you’d apply to any mover: licensing, clarity, and a binding price.
A quick pre-signing checklist
- I have at least three written estimates based on the same inventory.
- I know whether each estimate is binding, non-binding, or binding not-to-exceed.
- I verified the DOT/MC number on FMCSA (for interstate) or state licensing (for local).
- I checked reviews and complaint history across multiple sources.
- No one is demanding a large cash deposit or full payment upfront.
- I understand the valuation coverage and chose the level I want.
- Every fee is itemized, and I won’t sign any blank document.
FAQ
How many moving quotes should I get?
At least three, all based on the same inventory and services. Three gives you a sense of the fair market range and makes an unusually low or high quote stand out, which is exactly the outlier you want to investigate.
Is the cheapest moving quote always a scam?
Not always, but a quote far below the others deserves scrutiny. Often it’s cheap because it left out packing, stairs, or weight, or because the company plans to add charges later. Confirm what’s included and that the price is binding before you decide.
How do I verify a mover is licensed?
For interstate moves, ask for the company’s U.S. DOT number and look it up on the FMCSA website to confirm it’s active and matches the business name. For local moves, check your state’s moving or transportation licensing rules.
Should I pay a deposit before my move?
A modest deposit can be normal, but be wary of any mover demanding a large cash deposit or full payment upfront. Pay by credit card when possible so you have a way to dispute charges if the company doesn’t deliver.